Adventures of a Sun Seeker: "Yes! Yes! Very happy. Please! Please! Please?"

This was from one of our many roadside admirers, who apparently was showing off his command of the English language.

But the "very happy" totally applies to our situation right now. We have arrived in a totally adorable and charming little town, El Carmen De Bolivar, after bicycling 44 kilometers, starting at the front edge of dawn to beat as much heat as we could, traveling over "ondulaciones" landscapes, and fixing a flat tire.

It was our first day post colon-ial period, so we kept it to only 44 kms. Granted, when we finally came out of the endless rolling landscapes and into the bustle of humanity, the first thing I did was paddle through the heat into the nearest grocery store and buy a cold Gatorade. It was will-power more than physical strength that got me through this morning, even though I was rejoicing at the new-found cooperation of my gastrointestinal department ("Cipro, I love you for a thousand forevers").

I returned with my Gatorade to Elise and the bikes, plunked down on the sidewalk in the shade with about 6 men all there too, and after 3 Gatorade minutes felt like I had strength again.

Sitting there on the sidewalk during those minutes, however, I watched a man pick up my bicycle (and I was too heat-thwarted to bother stopping him), rotate it to better balance on its kickstand, and then fold two pieces of news paper over the seat to protect it from the sun. I could only look at him with wonder and gratitude for this tiny gesture of kindness. I felt truly touched by this.

Then I noticed that his red shirt had "Sandra" stitched into the breast pocket.

That is the fourth time today I have found my name here. This is bizarre. First "Sandra" was painted roadside, some sort of political ad. Then "Sandra" was in a heart scratched into the banyo door, of all the ten stalls I happened to choose at a rest stop. Then it was on a wall of a shop, all bright red.

It is like the world is cheering me on, or trying to get my attention today.

We are totally charmed with this town. Many streets are paved, we found an ATM, there is basically no garbage, and there is a beautiful church in the square. Its like everyone just decided that this place is worthy to maintain tidily. We found a pristine hotel, with WiFi AND running water AND air-conditioning AND no Corazon Music. All at once. I was ecstatic that the bathroom had a toilet seat even, and had to pose for a thrilled picture.

The fact that I washed some of my clothes, and Elise washed all of hers, is a tribute to our returning to ourselves. I even sang a dorky song.