Here are a few more cultural observations, upon request. These are in addition to those from a post at the beginning of the trip.
Please be aware that these are by no means representative of what the culture may actually be; these are simply my observations. I am also making generalizations as well, when more specific qualifiers may be appropriate, but I do my best as a biking anthropologist.
Our top favorite about the culture:
--How affectionate people are with each other here, the couples, the families, friends. In Barranquilla, for instance, I was watching a big brother and his little brother, the bigger holding and bouncing the little one, happily watching the carnival parade. Young girls walking arm in arm with their grandma. School girls holding hands and crossing the street. Boys draped over each other playing a phone game. Elise and I will happily sit and watch people for hours, just because it's so endearing and nurturing, just to observe. This sort of unmediated touching and affection is something you rarely see in the States, but is everpresent here.
--The vendors take one "no" for an answer if we don't want to buy anything; we really appreciate this. "Coco fria, chicas?" And one "no, gracias" and they leave us alone. This was not the case in Southeast Asia, where vendors would ask us at least four or five times, sometimes following us down the street. If I didn't want a lottery ticket the first time, I'm not about to be convinced by you waving it in my path.
--Salt is solo on the dining tables, there is no accompanying pepper. I bought a small bag of pepper in a grocery store to have with our meals. The few times I did see pepper on a table it did not come alone, but mixed with salt.
--The things we don't see can be as indicative as the things we do. I have noticed very little smoking. Although there are lots of signs in restaurants and hotels asking people not to smoke there.
--Also, compared with Costa Rica and Puerto Rico (my only other Latino culture comparisons) there is less a feeling of machismo here. This is represented by the lack of loud-mufflered, tricked-out machismo cars. There have been a few cars modified so that the rear wheels are markedly taller than the front, making the thing appear as if its about to do a nose dive, and this must be the machismo style here. But they have quiet mufflers and there are few of them.
--As women travelers, we have been treated with the utmost care and kindness. I can rarely get away with carrying my own bags. Last night a dude knocked on our hotel door to bring me my helmet I'd left on my bicycle; he was concerned it would be stolen. The men here somehow manage to be Latin, flirtatious, but not annoying.
--The truck drivers in this country are the most considerate I have ever encountered on a bike, which likely relates to the point above. They mostly refrain from honking at us (unlike Thailand where we had to wear earplugs) and they give us as much room as they possibly can. When they do honk at us, it is from quite a ways back, to give us time to move over, and the honks are so bip-like and gentle, as if they are apologizing, "sorry I'm so big, ladies, but I need to get through", rather than, "I'm bigger than you are outta my way!" In other places the trucks would honk when right beside us, which is just loud and cruel.
--Everything is drunk with a straw. A cup with a straw. A glass bottle with a straw. Gas drinks with a straw.
--Not wine or a beer served before your dinner arrives, as we are accustomed in the States. Here, the food is served alone, and then part way through people will get a sweet colored gas drink to go with it. I've watched how people eat here, and they'll take a big bite of food, then a big straw-full of sugary drink, so that basically all the bite is going to taste like sugar inside.
--Men admiring a woman is expressed as a whistle. At first we were annoyed by the frequent whistles at us, but then upon watching how a local woman behaved (smiling slightly, acknowledging the gesture) we realized this is a compliment indeed.
--People hiss to get your attention.
--Children here are mainly unattended, riding bikes at all hours in the city squares, wandering in happy packs in the villages, running errands in little flip flops carrying large bolsas. This is so different from America, where we keep our kids protected and busy and indoors. The children here seem happy and at peace; rarely have I seen a whining child pestering a beleaguered mother. P.S. Futball is an activity found in almost all towns, for the boys.
--Although this is not a culture thing, I should mention that almost all the products we buy are Hecho en Colombia. Many clothes, chocolate bars, yogurt, peanut snacks, bottled drinks...all Made in Colombia. I like that almost all we buy has been made here and not shipped in from elsewhere.
--Colombians live outdoors, just about. Houses are not a binary "indoors" and "outdoors" but more of a continuum: people sitting on steps, doors open, half open courtyards with sitting room furniture. And not only the houses, but it seems like the entire town is out in parks and cafeterias anyway. In the rural areas people were even hanging out right on the edge of the road, girls dressed cutely and brushing their hair.
--Anyone, at any time, is liable to start singing along with the music, no matter who is around.
--This country is hugely family oriented.
--Easy-going, care-free, non-judgemental people. Elise, a world-renowned world-traveler, says Colombians are the chillest people she has ever encountered. Hotel owners lend us bowls and don't care if we make salad in the room, restaurant owners care not if we bring in our own food, no one seems rushed or harried or annoyed, by anything, ever.
--This chillness can be best represented by the following anecdote. Scene: grocery store parking lot. Time: morning. Mr Taxi drops off two ladies at the store and continues driving slowly through the lot. Simultaneously, Mr Bolsa comes out of the store, carrying a bolsa, and walks into the parking lot. He must have been in Colombia Cloud World, because he's slowly meandering, drifting by, totally unaware of the world around him. He walks in the path of Mr Taxi. And the following is the amazing part, which would only rarely happen in the states: Mr Taxi gently bips his horn at Mr Bolsa, and then they look at each other in this sheepishly knowing way, and burst into laughter together. It's like Mr Taxi could recognize Mr Bolsa was happily day dreaming, or had had a beer already, or was in love with someone, and they shared that moment.
None of this impatient honking, "get outta my way!", or rushing here and there.
--Public transport. If Southeast Asia was bicycles for the kids to get to school and motorbikes for everyone else, then Colombia is predominantly buses. School buses, city buses, buses between towns, giant buses to traverse the country. The municipal buses will stop anywhere along their routes to pick up and drop off riders. A bloke hangs out the open door, yelling out the name of the destination, and helping people on and off. Again, huge respect for elders and women.
